PALPA -TANSEN

The former capital of the Magar kingdom of Tanahun, Tansen (Palpa) is a romantic medieval hill town, perched high above the Kali Gandaki River on the road between Butwal and Pokhara. The narrow, winding streets are full of Newari shop-houses and temples and most of the centre is too steep for cars, which all adds to Tansen's charm. Few tourists make it out this way, but it's easy to fill several days exploring the town and there are some excellent walks in the hills. Sadly, Tansen has been targeted by Maoists on several occasions, including a major assault on the Tansen Durbar compound in 2006. Check locally to make sure travel is safe before venturing here from Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Until the rise of the Shahs, Tanahun was one of the most powerful kingdoms in Nepal. Troops from Palpa even came close to conquering Kathmandu in the 16th century under the leadership of King Mukunda Sen. The power of the Magars waned in the 18th century and Tansen was reinvented as a Newari trading post on the trade route between India and Tibet. Metalworking and weaving dhaka, the fabric used for traditional Nepali jackets and topis (cloth hats), are still important local industries.

The tourist office can recommend some excellent walks to viewpoints and villages around Tansen and there are great views over the bowl-shaped Madi Valley from several points around town. A sheet of mist normally hangs over the valley till mid-morning, earning it the nickname 'White Lake'. For sweeping Himalaya views, head up to Shreenagar Danda, the forested peak above